A weekend in... Margate & Deal
Margate has been known as a seaside hipster enclave for London creatives priced out of the capital for some time now, but it was a new hotel opening in nearby Deal that reignited my interest in exploring this part of the Kent coastline earlier this year. There’s enough between both towns to make a fun long weekend any time of the year and it’s super easy to reach by train too.
Margate
Where to stay:
Cliftonville Townhouse is a great find - a converted townhouse in walking distance of everywhere you’ll want to go, on a quiet residential road where the only noise you’ll encounter will be seagulls (earplugs handily supplied if you need them - we didn’t). Owner Stephen has done a brilliant job in creating a stylish B&B with the attention to detail of a slick hotel operation. We were impressed by the homemade cake on arrival, the thoughtful list of favourite places to visit, and the seriously delicious breakfast served in-room. Stay in bedroom one - light, airy, tastefully designed with a brilliant bathroom complete with big roll top tub. Heaven! And amazing value. www.cliftonvilletownhouse.com
Also up-ending what you’d expect from a B&B concept is The Reading Rooms - fabulously romantic bedrooms created by owners with a serious eye for design. www.thereadingroomsmargate.co.uk
Where to wander:
Spend the day enjoying the sea air strolling around town and along the beach front. Favourite places we popped into were -
Haeckels - this tiny store is home to a gorgeous Margate-based natural skin care brand that makes wonderful products for skin, face, hair and home. I’ve since noticed their products stocked in London in places like Goodhood, Liberty and Ace Hotel and further afield in LA and Tokyo but it’s cool to go to the source! They also offer treatments - must be booked in advance. www.haeckels.co.uk
Turner Contemporary - I could spend hours here. The Turner Prize 2019 opens shortly, on 28th September until January 2020 www.turnercontemporary.org
Ruskin - a careful edit of mens and womenswear from brands including Etre Cecile, YMC, Folk and Universal Works plus homewares from emerging brands - and they had a great sale on when I visited. www.ruskinclothing.co.uk
Mar Mar - this place satiates all your city-kid house plant longings. Stuffed with every type of plant you can think of and then some, Mar Mar also has a cafe serving good coffee so you can sit and enjoy the jungle-vibes, and they sell a cool range of books and magazines, cards and gifts, and plant accessories. www.marmarmargate.co.uk
Where to eat & drink:
Angela’s - tiny seafood restaurant serving delicious, sustainable seafood. We had such a great dinner here. They work direct with growers, fishermen and suppliers who aim to minimise their impact on the environment whilst providing the very best possible produce. Get the smoked prawns if they are on the menu! Only a few tables so make sure you book.
Since my visit the team at Angela’s have opened Dory’s, with a shop that sells the raw ingredients used at the restaurant, and a seafood bar that overlooks the beach. A reason to go back. www.angelasofmargate.com
The Lifeboat - Friendly, cosy pub within stumbling distance of Angela’s, with a log fire in winter and regular live music - there was a great jazz band playing the night we were there. The Lifeboat Ale & Cider House, 1 Market Street, CT9 1EU.
Deal
Where to stay:
The Rose - A former pub, The Rose was recently converted into a charming hotel, bar and restaurant that has seen a young, artistic crowd sit up and take notice. It’s a fun place to stay - cool interiors, friendly staff, tempting cocktail menu and the food’s good too. When you’re not busy planning a redesign of your home based on your new digs, it’s location in the middle of town makes exploring a cinch. www.therosedeal.com
Where to wander, eat and drink:
Coastal walk to Walmer - heading along the coast from Deal’s centre, follow the coast path, past the little beach huts and fishing boats, weaving your way between the path and the beach along Wellington Parade and the houses that front onto the beach. Indulge all your “if we left London and moved here” fantasies. If you carry on up the coast towards Kingsdown, you’ll reach a great pub for lunch...
The Zetland Arms - this pub right on the beach has bags of character and serves wonderful fish and chips, making the most of the daily catch from just off the Kent coast. The ales are brewed by Britain’s oldest brewer, Shepherd Neame, in Faversham. If you visit around sunset on a good weather day, you’ll most likely be treated to a glorious view. www.zetlandarms.co.uk
Deal Pier & Deal Pier Kitchen - opened earlier this year, Deal Pier Kitchen, or DPK, is a great cafe and bar that sits right on the end of the pier, surrounded by the sea on all sides. Designed by Niall McLaughlin Architects, who won a RIBA prize for their creation, it’s a unique place to go for lunch or a drink on your way back into town. They also host regular supper clubs and Kent wine evenings. @dealpierkitchen
